Discovering
Eastern New Mexico
As you know if you’ve been following the blog, I’m a chile
fanatic.
This time of year, everwhere in
New Mexico is featuring Hatch Chiles, and Vicky has agreed to humor me by
taking us to the annual Hatch Chile Festival this year.
We’re staying for four nights at Caballo Lakes State Park
just off I-25.
For the first 3 nights we
almost have the place to ourselves.
We’re close to the lake, in an area with trees and open spaces, and with
a full hook-up.
NM State Parks have to
be the best value, with full hook-ups at the same price our would pay for no
connections in a National Park.
There’s
not a lot going on in the park, which is fine with us as we’ve come for the
solitude.
The journey here was easy, passing the White Sands Missile
Range and turning north just north of Las Cruces (which will be our next
stop).
This is part of the Camino Real,
the Royal Road used by the Spanish explorers.
We’re following the Rio Grande at this point.
Our first evening is a quiet one, exploring
the park and looking (unsuccessfully) for the source of the deer droppings we
see in the campgrounds.
We’re only about 20 miles from Truth of Consequences which,
I discover, was named Hot Springs before adopting the name of the TV show in
1950.
I discover that Riverbend Hot
Springs offers private tubs overlooking the Rio Grande at a reasonable rate, so
we spend a relaxing hour in our own spa bath.
Vicky spends quite a bit of the time sitting on the deck between
dips.
I also get out of the water a few
times, but not as much as Vicky.
I will
regret this decision later as I start to feel faint while taking my shower
afterwards, but fortunately the nausea passes quickly.
There’s not a lot to do in “T or C”, as the 1,500 locals
call it, but we do find a local restaurant with great chile cheeseburgers, and
then spend the afternoon in the Geronimo Springs Museum.
This features about 15 rooms of exhibits from
a pioneer cabin to historical features on the Apaches, and there troubles in
the 19
th Century.
There’s a
whole section on Ralph Edwards and the Truth of Consequences TV show.
In 1950 the show reached its 10
th
Anniversary and Edwards offered to host the show in a town if it would change
its name.
He was more than generous,
becoming a local celebrity and visiting the town regularly for over 25
years.
The museum features mementoes of
those years including a movie hosted by Edwards.
The movie includes a segment from the show,
which I never remember seeing.
We enjoy a quiet day at the park, then decide to visit Gila
Cliff Dwellings National Monument, which we saw on a sign off I 25.
It turns out to be 100 miles each way, so we
are going to make a full day of it.
I
check the gas tank in the car and discover we need to fill up first.
There are no gas stations near the park, but
Vicky finds one at an RV park a few miles up the road.
I pull in and the price – over $1 per gallon
more than anywhere else – floors me, so we decide to fill up at one of the
small towns along the way.
The road takes us across the desert and up into the
mountains – very scenic but also very twisty and in places narrow.
We take it easy and enjoy the journey, but by
the time we come to the last small town that might have a gas station, we’ve
decided that if there’s no gas here we’ll use Plan B and detour to Silver
City.
We will up there and although we
cold still go to the Cliff Dwellings, we’ll be too late for the ranger tour so
we decide to check out Silver City instead.
This turns out to be an inspired decision.
We know ahead of time that Billy the Kid grew
up here after his family left NYC, and right next to the Visitor Center is a
log cabin.
Although it’s on the site
where The Kid lived, his mother’s cabin was torn down in 1884.
This one was brought to the site by director
Ron Howard for a movie shoot, and he donated it to the town.
So we’re still following the young outlaw!
But that’s not the big discovery.
Right behind the Visitor Center is “The Big
Ditch”, a 50 foot canyon created in the late 19
th Century by major
floods of the river which wiped out the town’s Main Street.
The story is that early settlers cut down all
the trees in the high country surrounding the town.
This left an open channel for the spring high
waters that had previously been absorbed by the forest, hence the devastation.
The city’s main street is now one block back from the Ditch,
and armed with a pamphlet describing the history of many of the buildings, we
spend a fun hour or tow learning about the “old west” architecture as well as
some of the colorful characters in the town’s past.
Were also able to check out some of the
stores and meet many of the friendly locals – they’re so friendly, in fact,
that we’ll just leaving one store after 20 minutes or so inside when the owner
turns up – we had the place to ourselves until then.
We enjoy coffee and another of those green chile
cheeseburgers, then retrace our steps to the campground.
We’ve come so far west that we’re only 50
miles or so from Deming, which we’re visiting next week, but it would be along
detour to go back to the park that way, so we get to enjoy the mountain ride
again.
Don’t think I mentioned the 3
deer we saw at the highest point on the road on our way here.
Well, on the way back, the same 3 deer, who
ran away when our car approached, are there again, and get to repeat the
retreat!
Next morning it’s time to leave.
Just a short drive takes us to Las Cruces
where we’ll spend the next 2 nights, but having settled into the campground
there we hop in the car and head back up
I-25 to Hatch for the afore mentioned Festival.
Their advertising says that 30,000 people
come for the 2 day Festival.
WE drive
through the town passing many places where we can buy the local crop, and pay
the $20 admission fee to the “Festival”.
Thanks, Vicky, for indulging me, but on reflection I wish we’d just
bought some peppers in town.
The Festival is on the grounds of the local airport.
If the airport has runways or a terminal
building, we don’t see them.
Nor do we
see any source of shade, and it’s a hot day.
There are 2 performance stages.
We’ve just missed a ventriloquist at one of them, and the next act, a
singer, is among the missing.
WE walk
through the vendor area (lots of spices in jars and packets, as well as other
stalls unrelated to the chile theme) and find the other stage.
There’s a food place next to the stage so we
share an expensive plate of boring chile cheese fries while listening to an
average Country Western band.
Time to return to Las Cruces, and I still didn’t get the
chiles I wanted.
As we’re heading for
the exit I do manage to get a large bag of hot peppers for $2 and a small bag
of roasted chiles for $1.
So all is not
lost!
But I did get to attend the
celebration.
If we come to this area
next year I think we’ll just come into town to buy the chiles and leave!
Our park in Las Cruces is pleasant and shaded.
We had planned to go to the Farm and Ranch
Museum but many of the exhibits are outside and it’s hot, so we’ll save that
for a cooler day.
We spend Sunday
shopping for supplies and take in a movie, enjoying some quiet time.