40th Anniversary Trip Day 5

40^th Anniversary Trip Day 5 – Friday – into Barga

A cloudy day, but after breakfast we head down the 2km driveway and up the road to the nearby town of Barga.  This should be our first visit, but we actually passed through it on the way here as a result of one of the many wrong turnings on the journey from Florence.

One of the very helpful “Navigators” at the hotel has shown us where to find parking.  As she predicted, the lot next to the entrance to the old town is full, but we find a spot on the road down to the town hospital and have an energizing walk back up to the town (City?) walls.  I’m pleasantly surprised at Barga.  I suppose I was expecting something like an English village, but instead we find a medieval town with narrow, twisting streets with no traffic (except for fast driving local residents!)

We climb to the top of the hill and visit the sandstone duomo (cathedral) which dates back to the 11^th Century.  It’s dedicated to St. Christopher, the Patron Saint of travelers. The last part of the walk involves broad steps with minimal handrails so Vicky is worried about making it down again.  But she valiantly makes it and we’re rewarded not only with the cathedral visit but great views over the town.  We meet two couples from Yorkshire (England),. one of which has a house in a nearby village.  They’ve driven down through France, bringing their dog with them, so we get to make a canine friend too.

We find a much easier way to get down the hill and stop in a cute square for drinks at a café (outside tables).  Our new English friends soon arrive and take the next table.   After a leisurely stay we head back to the car, finding the restaurant (Scacciaguai) that I discovered online and where the hotel staff have made a reservation for us tonight.

Back to the hotel for a rest until it’s time to return for dinner.  At 7:30pm we’re the first diners and get a great table. There are only about 10 tables, in a couple of rooms, so it’s quite intimate.  The décor is rustic Italian.  Soon several other parties arrive but it’s an hour before any Italians turn up!  The dining room features TV screens where you can watch the chefs preparing meals in the kitchen.  As we’ll later realize when we see the chefs cleaning up and the TV is turned off, a table here is yours for the evening!

We’re in luck as it’s truffle season and they’re harvested locally.  The menu features several truffle dishes.  We decide to start by sharing a beef carpaccio with truffles – a great, flavorful start to a great meal.  Vicky has a chicken dish and I opt for pasta.  Everything is home made and delicious, including the crème brulee dessert. Service is friendly and yes, they speak English well.  (Great since I’m finding Italian very hard to pick up).   I’m ready to add one more to the rave reviews of this place!

We’re over half way down the hill to the car when it starts to rain and I realize I left my umbrella in the restaurant.  I make the choice not to go back for it then, because climbing the hill in the rain seems more strenuous than sprinting for the car.  Vicky has her umbrella so takes a more leisurely approach and I’ve started heating up the car by the time she reaches it.  3 days later I find they’ve kept my umbrella for me.  A super meal to end a super day, despite the rain.