40th Anniversary Trip Day 10

40^th Anniversary Trip Day 10 – Tuesday – on the Brenta Canal

Today we head for Venice.  It’s only 30 minutes by train or an hour by bus but we’re doing it the old fashioned way - by canal boat.

The Brenta Canal was built in the 16^th Century to  divert the flow of water that was silting up the Venice lagoon.  Soon, rich Venetians built villas along the canal and traveled to them by flat bottomed boats called Burchiellos.  We’ll be taking a modern boat called – logically – Il Burchiello.

The day doesn’t start off too well.  Our hostess had told us the best way to get to the dock would be by taxi, and there’s a taxi rank in the square next to the one where we’re staying.  We checked it out yesterday.  The boat leaves at 8am so we’re up early.  After 10 minutes or so at the taxi stand with none in sight, we’re getting worried.  After hurried consultation we schlep our bags to the street with the tram line and wait, with kids on their way to school.  The tram eventually arrives and soon deposits us at the railroad station, where there are plenty of taxis waiting.  With only 10 minutes before the boat leaves, we hope the taxi driver is honest.  Fortunately he is, and he quickly gets us to the dock where there’s a crowd of people but no boat!

 A young lady comes over and asks if I’m Philip.  We must be the last to arrive!  It turns out that due to the recent rain the river is high and the boat can’t get to Padua.  It’s waiting for us a few miles down the canal and they’ve laid on a bus to get us there.  So we miss the first couple of locks on the canal (there’ll be more!) but get to see more of Padua.  Away from the old center it’s an uninspiring modern city but we’re soon in beautiful countryside with quaint villages and cows.

I mentioned the villas, and the boat fare includes tours of 3 of them.  Our vessel is tied up outside the Villa Pisani at Stra. 

This was built in the early 18^th Century for Alvise Pisani, the 114^th Doge of Venice, and (what a coincidence!) has 114 rooms.  We don’t get to see them all, but we’re in a neo-Baroque castle that’s seen a lot of history.  In 1807 Napoleon bought it from the now impoverished Pisani family and we get to see his very impressive bed. 

Of course, only 7 years after that Napoleon was in exile and the Hapsburgs acquired it (and lost it a couple of times).  It was used as a retreat for wealthy European aristocracy.

Later, Victor Emmanuel, the first king of a united Italy, lived here.  He was a man of simple tastes, as evidenced by his bedroom.

Finally, it was restored and witnessed the first meeting of Hitler and Mussolini!  Now it’s open to people like us.  There are 5 English speaking people on the boat, and we have our own guide at this and the other villas we’ll visit.

The tour over, we settle down for the cruise.  There’s an upper observation deck where I spend some time, taking pictures of the locks we pass through, as well as other villas and small towns.  There’s a continuous commentary as we travel – in 4 languages, and a place to get good coffee on board.

Next stop is Villa Widman, one of the earliest residences built along the canal.  In contrast to the ornate Villa Pisani, this is more livable, and the grounds include stables.  Take a look!

Not long after, we stop for lunch.  You had the option of buying lunch at a restaurant right by the canal, and we did.  (The alternative was to bring a packed lunch).  We had a choice of regular or vegetarian and if you know me you may be surprised to hear we both went for vegetarian.  It started with a large plate of cheeses (great) and a basket of bread that was replaced when we emptied it.  The main course was an omelet with lots of vegetables – not bad but the blandest meal we had in Italy.  To finish, canned fruit salad and cream.  Next time I’d go for packing bread and cheese!

Back on the boat, we continue downstream thru more locks.  The weather is getting cloudier, but it’s a really relaxing day and we’re getting to enjoy the deep green Veneto countryside.  We arrive at our last villa.  This one was built by Palladio and has his trademark columns.  (If you know London, think of the Palladium theater!)  

It’s under construction and the only entrance is up a wide set of stone steps with no handrail.  Vicky isn’t comfortable with having to come down the steps afterwards so I do the tour alone.  It’s also just started to rain and since we can’t get back on the boat, she waits in the small gift shop.

The inside of the villa has 6 large rooms surrounding a high-ceilinged loggia.  A spiral staircase goes up to what were the servants’ rooms (the family didn’t want them intruding!).  The staircase is closed off but we can see the bottom of it.  Despite the large rooms, the other English speakers and I decide we could enjoy living here.

The rest of the trip, down to the mouth of the canal and across the Venice lagoon, takes place in rain, so the lower deck is crowded.  Now I’m glad Vicky chose seats up front, and apart from one large couple who hog the front window, blocking the straight-ahead view, we’re able to see all around.  The boat ties up on the Grand Canal, just downstream from San Marco.

Our hotel gave us 2 alternatives to get there – a (very expensive) water taxi or the public boat (vaporetto) followed by a 7-minute walk.  We have umbrellas and pull behind bags, and the rain isn’t too hard, so we choose the latter.  We’ll find out later there was actually an easier way.  The walk is straight across the island, with 3 bridges across small canals, but there are several small alleys so it takes us a while and I ask for directions twice, but we eventually arrive at the Grand Hotel Dei Dogi, a 14^th Century palace that has served as the French embassy and is now a luxury hotel.  We have a free stay and they’ve upgraded us to a suite.

The suite in question is in the building next to the lagoon, which means we have to cross the 2-acre garden.  This will be great when the weather improves but it’s not impressive in the rain.  The suite itself has 2 levels.  The entrance room has a sofa, a chandelier and closets, and leads into a large sunroom with loungers and a view over the garden.  There’s also a small, but luxurious bathroom.  A staircase leads to the upstairs bedroom, which also has a chandelier and is cozy.  We discover that water is leaking into the sunroom but call the front desk and they bring towels to soak it up.

We eat in the hotel dining room tonight.  Not cheap, but great service in a refined atmosphere.  Vicky describes it as one of the 3 best meals we had in Italy.  Tables and chairs draped in spotless white linen all the way to the floor.   Everything we’re served looks like a work of art.  Vicky chooses lighter options than I, so when it’s time for dessert she wants some and I don’t.  Fortunately, they bring two spoons!  But I’m getting ahead of myself.  This meal is worth describing in detail.

Vicky starts with a light and flavorful melon gazpacho, while I can’t resist beef tartare (again!) with a salad of asparagus (which I love, and this was young and tender) and chicory (new to me and a little bitter, but it complemented the seasoned beef well), goat cheese and a quail egg.

For her main, Vicky chooses tender scallops wrapped in bacon, with a cream and rosemary sauce and lentils.  I get to try a little and it’s sublime.  For me, pasta – but not what you’re thinking!  Home made linguine in a sauce of garlic and olive oil, served with tender turnip greens and the piece de resistance – red shrimp tartare.  I brave the shrimp and it turns out not to be raw but lightly cooked.  It’s juicy and melts in my mouth.  And unlike in the US, they’ve removed the tails so I don’t have to mess with them.  We’re both glad we didn’t eat all the bread, since we can now use it to mop up the last of those wonderful sauces.

After Vicky’s shared dessert – I mostly remember the cream – we end with chocolate truffles and coffee, then head back through the garden to our suite.