Saturday, August 18, 2018

Day 103 - The "Secret City" of Los Alamos


Day 103 - Friday - Los Alamos here we come

We have one more night at Bandelier and today we drive the 10 miles to Los Alamos.  This, of course, is the former "secret city" where the atomic bomb was designed in WWII.  Los Alamos National Laboratory (LANL) is still doing classified scientific research and to get into the town you have to drive through half a mile or so of the lab area.  So you go through a security checkpoint both entering and leaving.  I have to show my driver's license and say where and why we're going, and I have to vouch for Vicky!  A tame version of the security people had to undergo in the 1940's, as we'll find out.

Once in town the first shock, especially for Vicky, is its size.  In WWII it was home to about 6,000 people, all who whom used the address PO Box 1633, Santa Fe NM and couldn't tell anyone what they were doing.  It's currently home to about double that number.  Our first stop is the Bradbury Science Museum, and after 2.5 hours all we've seen is the orientation movie and the history gallery, where we both study every exhibit in detail.

We learn about the Uranium bomb "Little Boy" and the totally different Plutonium Bomb (originally called The Gadget. The bomb dropped on Japan was called "Fat Man".)
Each works in a different way to create a critical mass of fissile material and start a chain reaction.    We learn about the timeline for the development and many of the people who were involved, from famous scientists like J. Robert Oppenheimer and Enrico Fermi to the women who kept the place going and the technicians who worked on the development.  The day to day life was hard - other than the project leaders everyone lived in hastily built structures, and endured freezing winters and blistering hot summers.  But, as one woman put it, whenever things got bad you still had the amazing views!

We still have 4 more galleries to see but take a break for a walking tour of the town, that takes us past homesteaders' cabins, sites of 1940's barracks and the dining room of the Ranch School.  This school, founded in the 1920's by a Chicago businessman named Ashley Pond, provided a thorough academic and physical education for well-to-do boys.  The boys slept outside on a patio in all weathers!  The school closed abruptly in February 1943 when the US Government requisitioned the campus "for a secret purpose".  The Principal of the school received orders not to tell anyone why it had closed!  The small lake in the town was named Ashley Pond by the boys - the name still sticks but no report on what Mr. Pond thought of the idea!

After a visit to Starbucks we return to the Bradbury Museum and each goes our own way until it closes at 5pm.  I enjoy a thought provoking exhibit focusing on the two sides of the issue "Was President Truman correct in dropping the bombs on Japan?"  This is timely for us as we'll be seeing an opera on this topic next week.

They throw us out at closing time, just as the skies open for the afternoon thunderstorm, so we huddle in the doorway until it pas, then drive back to the campground to feed the children and have our own dinner.  Later we walk through the forest to the amphitheater for a ranger talk on the "3 Sisters" - Beans, Squash and Corn.  Ranger Jason spis a fascinating tale about how the sisters interact in nature.  We also realize this was the same Ranger Jason who kindled our interest in President John Adams when we visited the Adams House in Massachusetts back in 2016.  It's cool to make the connection and realize what a mine of information this young man is!

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